Dermal Peels, to Renew Your Skin.
🧪 Chemical Peels
Complete guide to chemical peels: types, acids, what each is for, recovery, risks and everything you need to know.
🧪 Are they going to put acid on your face to burn your skin on purpose? The truth about chemical peels
"So, are you going to put acid on my face to burn my skin on purpose? Isn't that… masochism?"
Yes and no. Technically, a peel is a controlled chemical burn. But just as controlled fire in a forest removes undergrowth and allows new, stronger growth, a peel removes damaged layers of your skin and allows new, brighter, more uniform and younger skin to emerge.
1️⃣ Not all peels are the same → Superficial, medium and deep. Each has its recovery and results.
2️⃣ Acids are not poison → Glycolic acid is in sugar cane; lactic acid is in sour milk.
3️⃣ Recovery varies → From a "lunchtime peel" (no downtime) to 2-3 weeks of "seclusion".
4️⃣ The sun is your enemy → Without strict sun protection, you can worsen spots.
🔍 Use the table of contents to navigate over 100 questions about peel types, acids, what each is for, recovery, risks and everything you need to know before deciding.
📑 Table of Contents
A chemical peel is a procedure that applies one or several chemical substances (acids) to the skin to produce controlled shedding of the superficial or medium layers. By removing damaged cells, the skin regenerates new, healthier, more uniform tissue with fewer imperfections.
No. A home scrub mechanically removes superficial dead cells. A chemical peel can reach living layers of the skin and produce structural changes: spots, fine lines, superficial scars.
Technically, yes. It is a first or second-degree chemical burn (depending on depth). But it is a controlled burn: the doctor controls the acid, concentration, exposure time and neutralisation so that the damage is exactly what is desired and the skin regenerates better.
From the English "to peel". Because after the treatment, the skin peels off. In superficial peels, peeling is mild and barely noticeable. In medium and deep peels, you see sheets of skin.
A superficial peel acts at the epidermal level without crossing the basement membrane. It only removes the stratum corneum (the most superficial dead cells).
Uses: improving texture and luminosity, hydration, mild acne, very superficial spots.
Recovery: practically none. You can apply makeup when you leave. These are called "lunchtime peels".
A medium peel removes the entire epidermis (living and dead) and reaches the papillary dermis (the most superficial layer of the dermis).
Uses: moderate sun spots, fine lines, superficial acne scars, sun-damaged skin.
Recovery: 5-10 days of visible peeling. Requires a few days of "seclusion".
A deep peel removes the epidermis and part of the reticular dermis (the deepest layer of the dermis).
Uses: deep wrinkles, severe acne scars, extreme photoaging, precancerous lesions.
Recovery: 14-21 days. Requires sedation or general anaesthesia. Only performed by experienced dermatologists or plastic surgeons.
| Characteristic | Superficial | Medium | Deep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sensation during | Mild tingling/stinging | Moderate burning | Intense burning (requires sedation) |
| Post-procedure redness | 1-2 hours | 2-5 days | 14-21 days |
| Peeling | Fine dust, barely visible | Visible sheets 3-7 days | Large flakes 7-14 days |
| Days of "work leave" | 0 | 3-7 days | 14-21 days |
| Scarring risk | Very low | Low | Moderate |
| Acid | Natural origin | Depth | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glycolic | Sugar cane | Superficial to medium | Texture, luminosity, acne |
| Lactic | Sour milk | Superficial | Hydration, sensitive skin |
| Salicylic | Willow bark | Superficial | Acne, pores, oily skin |
| Mandelic | Bitter almonds | Superficial | Dark skin, rosacea |
| Azelaic | Wheat, barley | Superficial | Rosacea, melasma |
| TCA (trichloroacetic) | Synthetic | Medium to deep | Spots, wrinkles, scars |
| Phenol | Synthetic | Deep | Deep wrinkles, extreme photoaging |
| Jessner | Combination | Superficial to medium | Acne, spots |
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with a small molecular size, allowing it to penetrate deeply and quickly. It is obtained from sugar cane.
Concentrations: 10-20% (cosmetic), 20-35% (medical superficial), 35-50% (medium).
Best for: irregular texture, luminosity, mild acne, superficial spots.
Not recommended for: very sensitive skin or rosacea.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is lipophilic (dissolves in fat), allowing it to penetrate into pores and dissolve sebum.
Concentrations: 1-2% (cosmetic), 10-20% (medical superficial peel).
Best for: active acne, blackheads, enlarged pores, oily skin.
TCA is a medium to deep acid used in concentrations of 10-50%. Unlike AHAs, TCA precipitates skin proteins, forming a white layer (called "frosting").
Concentrations: 10-15% (superficial), 20-30% (medium), 35-50% (deep, high risk).
Best for: sun spots, moderate wrinkles, acne scars, photoaging.
Risks: hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, scars if applied incorrectly.
Jessner's peel is a combination of resorcinol, salicylic acid and lactic acid in ethanol. It is a very popular superficial to medium peel for acne and spots. It is also used as preparation for TCA peels.
| Problem | Superficial peel | Medium peel |
|---|---|---|
| Dull skin, no glow | ✅ Excellent | ⚠️ Too much |
| Enlarged pores | ✅ Good | ✅ Better |
| Active acne (pimples) | ✅ Good (salicylic) | ❌ No (irritates) |
| Superficial sun spots | ✅ Good | ✅ Excellent |
| Fine lines | ✅ Good | ✅ Excellent |
| Deep wrinkles | ❌ No | ✅ Good |
| Depressed acne scars | ❌ No | ✅ Good (improves texture) |
Yes, peels (especially TCA) are excellent for sun spots (solar lentigines). One or two sessions of TCA 20-30% can eliminate spots that have been there for years.
But be careful: melasma (hormonal spots) is more stubborn and can worsen with aggressive peels due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. For melasma, better to use mild peels (azelaic acid, mandelic acid) combined with strict sun protection.
It depends on the type of mark:
- Red (post-inflammatory erythema): mild peels (azelaic, mandelic) help.
- Brown (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation): medium peels (TCA) are good.
- Depressed (atrophic scars): medium peels improve texture but do not erase deep scars. For those, you need subcision, fractional laser or fillers.
No. Expression lines (frown lines, crow's feet) are caused by muscle contractions. Peels do not affect the muscle. For that you need Botox. Peels improve the texture of the skin over the wrinkle, but the wrinkle will still be there when you move your face.
Depends on the depth:
- Superficial (20% glycolic): 2-3/10 — mild tingling/stinging, like mild sun exposure.
- Superficial (salicylic): 1-2/10 — almost nothing.
- Medium (25% TCA): 5-7/10 — moderate burning, like an intense sunburn.
- Deep (phenol): 8-9/10 — intense burning (requires sedation).
Yes, depending on the type:
- Superficial peels: anaesthetic cream 30 min before (optional).
- Medium peels: anaesthetic cream + cold air during application.
- Deep peels (phenol): intravenous sedation or general anaesthesia, in an operating room.
20-40 minutes total:
- Cleaning and degreasing: 5 min
- Acid application (layer by layer): 5-15 min
- Waiting time: 2-10 min
- Neutralisation: 2-5 min
- Calming cream application: 5 min
Yes, it is very common during medium peels to reduce burning and inflammation and improve tolerance.
| Type | Peeling onset | Peaking peeling | Peeling ends |
|---|---|---|---|
| Superficial | Day 2-3 | Day 3-4 | Day 5-7 (barely visible) |
| Medium | Day 2-3 | Day 4-6 | Day 7-10 |
| Deep | Day 5-7 | Day 8-12 | Day 14-21 |
The best options to calm and repair:
- Cicaplast Baume B5 (La Roche-Posay)
- Cicalfate (Avene)
- Bepanthen cream (panthenol)
- Pure Vaseline (on very dry areas)
Not recommended. During active peeling, makeup adheres to the skin flakes and the result is terrible (lumpy). It can also delay healing. Wait until peeling ends (day 7-10 for medium peels).
Complications can include:
Immediate: persistent erythema, oedema, pruritus, pain.
Late: hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, depigmentation, demarcation lines, vesicles, blisters, milia, acneiform eruption, infections (herpetic reactivation, bacterial).
Medium and deep: atrophic scars, cardiac arrhythmias (phenol), laryngeal oedema.
Yes, a peel is a strong stimulus that can reactivate the herpes simplex virus (HSV-1). If you have a history of herpes, you should take valacyclovir or acyclovir 2 days before and 5 days after the peel. Do not get a peel if you have an active cold sore.
No. There are no safety studies. Acids can be absorbed systemically. As a precaution, it is not recommended. Wait until after breastfeeding.
No. Isotretinoin makes the skin fragile and prone to abnormal scarring. The risk of hypertrophic scars or keloids is high. Wait at least 6 months after finishing treatment.
Superficial peels are cumulative. A cycle of 4-6 sessions spaced 2-4 weeks apart is recommended to see a noticeable change. Then, for maintenance, every 3-6 months.
A medium peel (TCA 25-30%) can give a noticeable result in 1 session. Sometimes a second session is needed after 3-6 months for resistant areas.
Autumn and winter are the best times, when the sun is less intense and you spend less time outdoors. This reduces the risk of post-inflammatory spots. Summer is contraindicated for medium and deep peels.
Yes, but with care:
- With PRP or exosomes: excellent combination. First the peel, then the PRP/exosomes.
- With microneedling: can be done on the same day (first microneedling, then peel or vice versa depending on the protocol).
- With laser: not on the same day (too aggressive). Separate by 4-8 weeks.
- With Botox or fillers: better to do the peel first, wait 2 weeks.
| Type | Price per session |
|---|---|
| Superficial peel (glycolic, salicylic) | £50-130 |
| Medium peel (TCA 20-30%) | £180-430 |
| Deep peel (phenol) | £1700-4300 |
| Jessner peel | £85-220 |
The phenol peel requires an operating room (or procedure room with monitoring), anaesthesia (sedation or general), cardiac monitoring, anaesthesiologist, nursing staff, several hours of procedure and sometimes days of hospitalisation.
A procedure that applies acids to the skin to remove damaged layers and stimulate new tissue regeneration, improving texture, spots and luminosity.
No. A scrub removes superficial dead cells. A peel can reach living layers of the skin and produce structural changes.
Depends on the type: superficial (mild tingling), medium (moderate burning), deep (intense burning, requires sedation).
Superficial: 3-5 days (barely visible). Medium: 7-10 days (visible sheets). Deep: 14-21 days (large flakes).
No. It can cause scars and spots. Let it fall off on its own.
No. The skin is extremely sensitive to UV radiation. Use physical SPF 50+ and avoid direct sun.
No. It is dangerous and can cause burns, scars and permanent spots. Only a doctor should apply them.
No. Medium and deep peels are medical procedures that only a doctor can perform.
Superficial: £50-130. Medium: £180-430. Deep (phenol): £1700-4300.
Superficial: 4-6 sessions (2-4 weeks apart). Medium: 1-2 sessions (3-12 months apart). Deep: 1 session in a lifetime.
Better to avoid it. The best time is autumn and winter. Summer increases the risk of spots.
Yes, superficial peels with salicylic acid are excellent for active acne. Medium peels are not used on active acne.
Yes, especially medium TCA peels for sun spots. For melasma, mild peels and an integrated approach are needed.
Yes, especially superficial peels for maintenance and medium peels for sun spots. They are safe, effective and have a good cost-benefit ratio when performed by an experienced doctor.